Play Misty For Me: Day 7 - Montalieu-Vercieu to Lyon - Hey Buddy, You're Going the Rhone Way - Rhone Source to Sea 2018 - CycleBlaze

October 10, 2018

Play Misty For Me: Day 7 - Montalieu-Vercieu to Lyon

Spoiler alert. The title has nothing to do with Clint Eastwood's psycho-thriller, from the '70's. It's just about the weather.

We got off to a fairly early start (for us) after having breakfast with our Firemen friends. It had rained during the night and although it had stopped by morning, the clouds didn't really want to clear off. Very misty riding through nice rural villages and countryside.

Around the halfway point, near Jons, we noticed a distinct rise in the number of people out and about and an increase in the general 'busyness' as we approached Lyon. At about this same point we were on dedicated bike paths that lined both side of the Rhone... very nice. I even broke out the 'boom' and we were listening to tunes as we road along.

Overall just another good day of biking, and although Lyon is France's second largest metropolitan area, with about 2.2 mm people, it was a piece of cake to ride right into the center of town on bike paths.

However, once we were right in the center, Lyon gave us a geography lesson! It sits at the confluence of two large rives, the Rhone, which we've been riding for the last few days, and the Soane, which flows south from Burgundy. There is an island / peninsula in between these two rivers where 19th century Lyon was built. Old Lyon (very old .... think Romans) is on the west bank of the Soane, and the hotel we booked, a beautiful old monastery right beside the Roman amphitheater, is on this side. 

At the top of a hill. 

An extremely steep hill. 

So steep the fine folks of Lyon built a funicular train to get to the top. We found that out when we saw the summit station near our hotel after pushing and riding our bikes up the hill!

Anyway, it was a good work out to get to the Hotel Fourvier and we got immediate payback. It is a very, very beautiful establishment, and we showed up in lycra and very sweaty wool cycling jerseys. So what does the woman who's checking us in do? But of course, she gives us an upgrade to their best suite in the entire hotel! It is spectacular and will be our lovely home for the next two nights.

Lyon is renowned as the gastronomic heart of the country, and we intend on testing this out over the next 48 hours. Till then, salut!

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SOTD

Flipside by Norah Jones

'Cause today was the flipside of France for us - we swapped rural zombie villages for the big city of Lyon ... and the food and accommodations changed considerably as well

I was playing the boom as we cruised into Lyon along the banks of the Rhone ... this came on about halfway through the ride ... resonated with me.

One of the first things we saw this morning --- one of the biggest lawnmowers ever!
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once again it was a pretty 'rural' day
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more of the same, but still good. Dedicated bike paths and D roads like this
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a couple of very young calves
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..looks like a nice place ... to bad it was shut up tight at 1:45 pm. Fortunately we had found a different one open (at 11:30) and had our lunch there. If you wait until after noon you are really taking your chances
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cruising along the Rhone as we approached Lyon. We had about 20 km of riding like this until we were in the center of France's 2nd biggest city
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We weren't the only ones there though - our first sighting of the dreaded river cruise boats! The Danube was festering with these things
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our lovely hotel is at just about the highest point int he city ... and every road leading to it is devilishly steep!
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starting the trek uphill - very old and beautiful part of Lyon
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didn't even try to ride up this - way steeper than it looks and cobblestone - our bike cleats were slipping as we pushed up
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our hotel is an old monastery with beautiful grounds
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About to re-enact the Classic American Express commercial - K is entering the hotel
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the front desk staff must have been cycle tourers too - we were upgraded to a suite - very sweet! It was designed by, and named after one of the main drivers of the art deco movement - who was from Lyon
The sitting room
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the sleeping room
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the bath room
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..all laid out along a long corridor that looks out into the monetary grounds ... a nice change from the dormitory rooms we had with the firemen last night
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... even in the lap of luxury, laundry still needs to be doen. Great tub for doing it though
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post ride bevies ... local blondes
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the reception / check
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the ceiling of he reception /check in
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extremely cool bench / sculpture ... so organic
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... and finally, a classic Lyonnais dinner at Daniel & Denise ... a M. Michelin recommendation ... more to come tomorrow ... a rest day in Lyon
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Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 552 km (343 miles)

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