So Long to the Tuscan Hills ...Say Hello to Lazio's
Another 'Play Misty For Me' day as we rode south out of Tuscany and into Lazio. The forecast called for rain but we were lucky and none fell from the sky, although it looked like that was going to be a certainty at several points.
A we've always seen on these multi-week cycle trips, there is a continuous incremental change in the countryside. You really don't notice the day to day change, but after a few days, you suddenly realize that you are in someplace different.
We got that sensation this afternoon after descending a looong way down from Radicofani and seeing that the lush vineyards and forests had been replaced by arid hills sides with rock outcrops and hoodoos. The nicely graded hills were still there though!
Another interesting aspect of today's ride was how remote it was. So far in Italy, there have been towns at least every few km's, even in the Alps in the far north of the country. However, today when we left Buonconvento, we came up on Torenieri and San Quirico at the regular(ish) 5km intervals,but then we had a 25 km run, with 450 m of elevation gain, before we came across the next village, Radicofani. We then had another 27 km run before we hit the next village, our refuge for tonight, Acquapedente. Beautiful country and riding, but being that remote in Italy was a new sensation!
Radicofani is an interesting place in an amazingly beautiful setting. A fort on an 800 m mountain, dominating the area in a 360 degree fashion. It is obviously on the Pilgrim map as well. We saw several folks who looked like they were on a pilgrim walk, and you really have to work to get here, either on foot or bike, including a younger guy who had a donkey with him. Some folks go to great lengths for authenticity!
Our home for tonight is quite an interesting place as well. It's on what I think is the rim of the ancient volcanic cauldra that is now Lake Bolsena (we will be cycling around this tomorrow). Ancient (as is everywhere here) and devoid of tourists. Lively streets and squares with locals going about their business in an oh-so-Italian way ... which means full of life and energy.
We have a simple room above a Trattoria just off the main square. Clean with very friendly and accommodating owners and inexpensive too! Dinner tonight was at a small restaurant above a butcher shop. Family run, no menu, you got what they cooked that day. Excellent and it filled the meal with anticipation and excitement!
Tomorrow we continue our slow but persistent path south towards Rome.
It's no cliche, around here, all roads do in fact lead to Rome!
Song of the Day, Birmingham by Shovels and Rope. Great little song and the line
"Making something out of nothing with a scratcher and our hope, with two old guitars like a shovel and a rope"
reminds me of how we're making this tour up day by day, and it all seems to work out fine.
A lot of todays ride was on hwy SR53 that went to Radicofani. It was in very nice shape and this was pretty much the traffic level on it. Beautful rolling country with all hills very ride-able (no 15% + grades!)
Church, square, bikes, restaurant ... everything we need ... not shown here, but another nearby square had a centuries old well and fountain supplying fresh drinking water!
