A few days in Beppu - Six Wheels Through Japan Part 2 - CycleBlaze

November 19, 2023 to November 21, 2023

A few days in Beppu

Our frequent travel is giving us wonderful discounts on our accommodation through the sites I use. It seems to be a competition to get us to choose them. Nonetheless, we are liking it, as one group give us a free night every 10 stays, the other has upped their discounted pricing. This has allowed us to stay in hotels which would usually be above our budget. The Amenek in Beppu fits that bill. It is modern, beautifully equipped with full suites, an immense pool on the roof, onsens…inside and outside. Our price is about half the usual. We are enjoying our two night stay here 

We are staying a few nights in the modern part of Beppu which is located at sea level. We will take our bikes and visit the Kannawa district of Beppu up in the hills, amidst the clouds of steam and sulforous aromas. Beppu is famous for its geothermal natural hot springs and is characterized by huge plumes of steam that come up from the ground and make the area seem otherworldly. This appearance has earned the Kannawa district the nickname of “hell”. So, one could say that today we are going to hell and back!  Often, while walking on the streets of Beppu, as you walk through a wall of steam, it is like having a facial.

Heading out for a ride up to the Kannawa district of Beppu.
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The design and architecture of this hotel is ultra modern. You can see the lobby has ultra high ceilings, the windows are floor to ceiling and from the ceiling are suspended box shapes made of natural wood. This theme is repeated throughout the hotel.
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The question of where to park our trikes was our only challenge checking in. Their response was that we should take them to a nearby bike storage of racks on the street. We showed them our trikes as their size and style make this impossible. We were firm that these very valuable trikes need to be inside and that perhaps a spare corner in this oversized lobby would work. Finally, the manager agreed. Yeah. As it turned out, the trikes were not a liability as many guests and cleaning staff were fascinated by our strange trikes. So many people came up to us and were full of questions and compliments. Perhaps, if we ever go back…the hotel will have added such an installation to their design.
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Beppu offers an unmatched range of baths to be enjoyed, including hot water, mud, sand and steam baths.  Today we will be doing The Hells of  Beppu, a self guided walking tour where there are several types of hot springs available for viewing rather than bathing.

Today we will be doing the walking tour exploring the Seven Hells of Beppu which features 7 different locations, so named as Jigoki is the Japanese word for hell.  Each location Jigoku Meguri  will highlight  a use or element  of the geothermal waters. We will park our trikes and walk to the different sites.

Before plunging into the tour, we need fortification. The steam is very useful for cooking and our food will be cooked in these boxes. It takes about 7 minutes.
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First we had yummy steamed buns stuffed with meat, served piping hot.
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Then we shared this container of chicken pieces. It was so moist and tender.
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The rust colour is from the sulfur content of the steam.
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It is hard to capture the otherworldly feeling here as one can disappear momentarily in the steam.
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The orange/rust tones from the geothermal waters.
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Well, this was a funny situation I found myself in. I was blissfully sitting with my feet in the hot thermal waters when this excited group from Hong Kong joined me. To give context, the foot bath is large with extensive areas to sit, yet they sat with me and almost on top of me! The woman beside me didn’t have enough space and I had to budge over closer to her friend. I tried to leave but the group wanted me to stay. We did not share mutual languages, yet here I sat….in this “tranquil space” immersed in a loud happy group of people.
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And then, Barry and I had a quiet moment together. After a bad fall earlier in the trip and hurting my foot, these waters feel so good. As soon as my foot is in this water, I feel a painful tingle right in the spot I injured.
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Nature is a wondrous thing…the blue waters are beautiful. We were astounded by the amount of steam rising from this roaring pool. This ocean blue appearance is a result of the sun’s rays hitting the particles of the water. If you scooped these waters, it would be transparent.
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Barry is standing with this character Oni, welcoming you to Oniyama Hell in the region of Kannawa.
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This foot warming station was a surprise. I love the foot baths and how they feel. But these very hot tiles heated by geothermal steam produced an immediate feeling of relief. It was very funny for me and his family to see the awesome impact this little guy felt when his feet first touched the floor.
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This Hell Pool was stunning in its beauty. The pool was filled side to side with this extraordinary profusion of water lilies ….stunning.

Onibasu (prickly water lily) grow from 3’ to 6’. Truly impressive…we felt like we were back in Thailand, but so much more.
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The texture of the water lily pad is almost like leather and feels quite strong.
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Extraordinary beauty.
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Bananas growing in the greenhouse benefitting from this warm thermal environment.
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The corrosive effects of the steam and water on this red figure.
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It has impacted this guy as well.
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Such a beautiful day….love the glorious tall palm trees in this memorable setting.
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Rich FrasierWell, that wins the prize for the biggest non-sequitur I’ve seen today!
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5 months ago
This hell is home to about 80 crocodiles. Water from the hot springs is mixed with regular water. It creates a perfect environment for the crocodiles.
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We liked this mural of happy crocodiles and Oni.
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Three times a week there are shows featuring the feeding of the crocodiles
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Charmaine RuppoltWow, scary seeing the big crocodiles leaping up!
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5 months ago
Today has been memorable on so many levels…just taking in the beauty is part of it.
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Another effect of the waters is healthy, big fish.
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An amusing take on Oni with the sea creatures in hell.
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Churning waters from the geothermal activity - love the extraordinary blue colour.
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Another use of the geo thermal steam is for respiratory health by inhaling it. Approach this exercise slowly as the effects are immediate.
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Bubbling mud….useful for body aches…at a reduced temperature!
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We loved our visit to this stop…and it was largely due to the workers. This fellow’s love for what he does and his sense of humour was infectious. First he gave us hard boiled eggs that had been cooked at the pool. Super easy to peel and a brown colour throughout. He insisted on adding seasoning with each bite - delicious. Lots of fun with this guy.
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At the same location as where we had eggs, was a foot station. This was unlike other experiences as the engaging fellow who works there, instructed us how to massage our feet on the pebbled surface and to put our foot directly on the hose which fills the pool. He provided us with towels (a first) and his humour kept us all laughing. Good fun.
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Susan JamesYou look so cute there.
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5 months ago
The heat forms conical shapes that bubble up and they are affectionate referred to as monk heads due to the shaved smooth appearance of a monk’s head.
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We have had an extraordinary day, rising early in our hotel and having an onsen at the roof spa, followed  by a great ride to the Kannawa district, touring the 7 Pools of Hell as well as having numerous therapeutic foot baths.   The  only downside is that somehow my knapsack containing my Hoka runners went missing. We think it must have somehow come loose while riding.   that really sucks..but these things are replaceable.

Finished our day with a visit to a a Kura Conveyor Belt Sushi restaurant. Life is good.😺
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We realized once we had finished our day of exploring and riding that Mary Ellen’s backpack with her Hoka runners and a camp pillow was not on the back of her trike. Where could it be? We always attach our backpacks to our rack with a bungee cord,but we think that somehow it came off during our ride. We do recall about not taking it and most likely we took off without attaching it. Despite the lateness of the hour, Barry decided to retrace our route and search for it. That included riding back up to hell.

Meanwhile, I checked with the hotel if it had been turned in. They were very thorough and they checked their security footage etc and nothing could be found. This young man who works at the hotel, took on my problem and did all he could. But sadly, without success. 

I appreciate this young man’s care and time in trying to help me locate my backpack. He works at the hotel and is attending university as well. I really enjoyed chatting with him.
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Today's ride: 24 km (15 miles)
Total: 1,001 km (622 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonWhat an amazing day! So much to learn about the Japanese culture!
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5 months ago