October 15, 2013
Moura
Well, I wished for some adversity to provide contrast, and today I wasn't disappointed. First of all, the road surface could have been slightly better. Yesterday's was glasslike, but today's was intermittently slightly rough. On top of that, we spent most of the day cycling into a mild headwind; we've come to expect better than this.
There were offsetting compensations though - more idylic weather, more great scenery, colorful towns, another fine dinner, and one of the best hotels we can remember staying at. So, on the whole, only a semi perfect 9.5.
The day began with a semi-steep climb away for the Guadiana, gaining perhaps 500' in the first few miles. After that the road settled into conditions that lasted for most of the 30 miles to our lunch stop in Serpa - a lightly rolling terrain through fields punctuated with oak, cork and pine; and roads lined with picturesque colonnades of eucalyptus. Along one stretch, a line of about 20 utility poles paralleled the road, with a stork nest atop nearly each of them.
We stopped at midday in the small historical town of Serpa, enjoying lunch at a cafe in the historical center; and then lingered a bit to check out some of the town's monuments. Afterwards we cycled eastward for another 20 miles through more gently rolling terrain, arriving in Moura a bit before 4. We were stunned by our lodgings in Hotel de Moura. It is a beautiful place - a converted 17th century monastery, beautifully maintained, and with a distinguished collection of heirloom furniture. And, it was remarkably economical - at 52 euros (about 75 dollars) including breakfast, it's about the most reasonably priced hotel we've stayed at.
Moura itself was a delight to wander through before dinner - striking architecture reflecting a Moorish influence, beautiful streets and alleys to explore, and some elegant churches and monuments. And, it has a great restaurant which was recommended to us by the hotel - a small place with a local menu. The meal was delicious and the portions more than generous. Contentedly full, we waddled our way back to the hotel to rest up for the next day.
Elevation log: 2900 today, 9400 total.
Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 198 miles (319 km)
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