Córdoba to Baena - More Dreaming - Lisbon to Barcelona - CycleBlaze

April 30, 2022

Córdoba to Baena

We were slow leaving town as we took in the sights of Córdoba one last time.  We rode to the Mezquita/Cathedral and then under the Gate leading on to the Roman Bridge.  We walked our bicycles across the bridge, looked back one last time and then we were on our way to the next place: Baena.  

 Today was another extraordinary cycling day: for the first  50km we rode on a quiet secondary road, high up along a ridge, with wide open spaces, rolling hills of olive groves, sunflower plants, wheat and fields being prepped for planting.   We had one wrong turn that unfortunately took us down off the ridge to the valley below.  It meant a huge climb back up on dirt tracks in the noon day sun.  If you are following our route, go right instead of left at the only Y junction (even though the signposted road number does not match what's on Google Maps) and you will sail along the top. 

We stopped only to take in the views and snap pictures, that is until hunger took over and we found a lunch spot under one of the few trees beside the road.  There was no vehicle traffic on this perfect paved road so we were surprised when traffic in the form of two cyclists from Holland appeared, Jan and Wilma Timmers.  It was delightful to meet them and exchange info on routes and touring ideas.  They were on ebikes so soon disappeared from view ahead of us. 

Temperatures hit 34 degrees and we were almost out of water when we came to the town of Castro Del Rio.  After climbing up to the town square we ordered cold drinks, rehydrating for the last 19km to Baena. 

Baena is on a hill as well, so one more climb brought our total vertical for the day to 850m.  After a shower and a quick snooze we went up to the town square for supper.  The square is the only flat piece of land in town and kids were playing and riding their bikes while parents sipped drinks and chatted with family and friends. 

As the sunset, one of the main buildings’ lights came on in the yellow/blue of Ukraine’s flag.  Beautiful, heartwarming and heart wrenching. 

The 1st Century BC Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir River
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Parking the bikes against the walls of the South Gate.
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Steve in the S bend.
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Kathleen WearyAmazing shot mom! Wow
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1 year ago
Last look back at Córdoba.
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Scott AndersonWow. We’ve ridden this wonderful road twice now but never seen it when it was green. I keep telling Rachael that we have to see Andalucia in the spring some year.
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonYes, the flowers are beautiful. Everything is green this time of year although at times the ground looks dried out already. I can’t imagine how dry it must be in August.
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1 year ago
Waving fields.
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It was steep and hot going on the dirt track back up to the paved road on top of the ridge.
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Lunch under the palm trees.
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The road less travelled.
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Plaza del Generalisimo, Baena.
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Plaza del Generalisimo, floodlit in Ukraine's colors.
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Scott AndersonOh, no! I see this is the exact route we had mapped in the journal when took on this ride back in 2004. That unpaved stretch at Castro del Rio is an error on the map, which I drew from memory when I posted the journal a few years ago. Hopefully you weren’t relying on it as a resource! I’ve corrected mine now to destroy the evidence though.
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonHi Scott
No we did not take any dirt roads after Castro del Rio. It was on pavement albeit with cars. We just felt spoiled after 50 car free miles, but there weren’t many and we were in Baena in no time. What a great cycling day!
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1 year ago

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 939 km (583 miles)

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Rachael AndersonWow you’re sure getting hot weather and some challenging riding. You both are really tough!
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Rachael AndersonHi Rachel,
Thanks so much for the boost of confidence. We are feeling stronger every day. You two set the bar high! Really enjoying following your trip. France is amazing. Every route you take and every town you visit I want to go too. You guys should be hired by tourism France! Love following along, can’t wait to see each day where you end up. Thanks a bunch.
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1 year ago
Kathleen WearyI agree with Rachel! So tough 💪
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1 year ago