To Tarascon

April 17, 2022

Another near-perfect cycling day, even better than yesterday - still sunny but about ten degrees cooler, with mild winds that turn favorable and strengthen as the day wears on. It’s our longest travel day so far, so we get an early start and are on the road by 9:30 (yes, we know - that’s a late start for many of you, but it’s pretty early for us). For the first seven miles we follow the same route as yesterday’s - far enough that I grow anxious about it and neurotically check and recheck our map to make sure we haven’t loaded the wrong one and are heading to Aigues-Mortes again.

Not far from the Rhone-Sete Canal we come upon a lone cyclist at an intersection, staring at the road signs and trying to get her bearings. She asks us for information, but speaks only French so we don’t understand her. She quickly gives up, but then I realize she’s saying Aigues-Mortes. I know where that is! I start indicating directions - not this gravel road, but back where you just came from and then turn right at the canal.

Soon, seven or eight other cyclists come up - a multigenerational, multi-ethnic, mixed nationality group. One of them is from America and speaks our language, so can be a clearer - enough to convince them that I know what I’m talking about. So they all turn back the way they just came from, which for a while longer is our direction also. We stay in contact long enough to insure that they take the correct turn, and then we wave at each other as they look back at us up on the bridge crossing the canal.

We’ve been bailed out countless times by people helping us when we’re disoriented. It’s nice to be able to pay it back in a modest way for a change.

For the first seven miles we’re following yesterday’s route. I took a shot at this spot then, but it really needed a biker in it. Do-over.

Finally we’re breaking off in a new direction. We’re crossing the Rhone-Sete canal here but yesterday we followed the canal to Aigues-Mortes, like that group of bikers down there we helped navigate to this spot.

So we’re in the Petit-Camargue again this morning, this time crossing it west to east. We’re further inland so we see very few flamingos, but there’s plenty else to see. It’s brilliant.

In addition to the horses and flamingos, the other icon of the Camargue is these black bulls, bred for the version of bullfighting unique to the region. It’s the one form of bullfighting I can imagine witnessing - they don’t injure or kill the bulls.

Another mystery. Surely someone out there is looking for a challenge.

Our ride across the Petit-Camargue brings us one delight after another.

A recent immigrant to France, the number of breeding glossy ibises is now growing exponentially, especially in the Camargue. We saw hundreds of them today.

Crossing the Petit-Rhone. We’re leaving the Petit-Camargue and entering the Camargue.

The natural park begins once we cross the Petit-Rhone and enter the Camargue proper. We’d been looking forward to it, but it’s really a bit of a letdown. We’re at its northern end, and it’s pretty featureless. Flat, empty, dry, a bit monotonous actually. If you come to the Camargue yourself our recommendation is to cross it further south near or along the sea. It’s amazing down there.

We were excited to come to the ‘real’ Camargue, but at its northern end it’s not that exciting. Flat, open, pretty dry. Closer to the sea it’s much more interesting.

We’ve been looking for miles without success for a place to stop and have lunch, but there’s nowhere with a space to sit in the shade until we finally come to Arles. We cross the Rhone and pull up at the first promising cafe we come to, nourish ourselves and chill out, and strike up a very interesting conversation with the couple at the neighboring table. They’re French but the man speaks reasonably good English - adequate enough that we can describe each other’s cycling experiences. They have two kids, the youngest one 7, and they take them bike camping - he hauls a Bob behind for extra carrying capacity. They rode down the Atlantic coast with them from Nantes to La Rochelle last summer.

We tell them where we’ve been, and that we passed through Perpignan and Narbonne, which brings the grimaces and groans we’ve come to expect when we mention that notoriously windy region. They suggest we check out the Auvergne instead.

We stopped in the outskirts of Arles for a snack lunch and enjoyed a halting conversation with this couple. they're from Grenoble now, down by the sea for a bicycle outing with their friends and children. their eyes crossed when we mentioned wed stayed in Narbonne (too windy!), and suggested we check out the Auvergne or Aveyron.

We’re still about an hour’s bike ride from Tarascon, but it’s a breeze - literally. It’s still completely flat, and the wind has gained enough strength by now that we just cruise on quiet roads the rest of the way. The longest travel day of the tour so far, but neither of us is really feeling it.

After leaving Arles we cross the Petit-Rhone for the second time today, just below the point where it splits off from the main channel. This wonderful old bridge (the Pont du Fourques, the bridge connecting Arles and Fourques) is unfortunately closed to cars now, but it’s an enjoyable crossing anyway.

The Petit-Rhone doesn’t actually look particularly petite.

Nearing Beaucaire. We’ve been crossing paths with bike travelers all day. Hey Frank - it’s another black/yellow combo! Classy!

I didn’t bother walking across the grass to read the panel describing this interesting structure outside of Beaucaire because I was sure I could figure it out from the map later. I was wrong. I can see it on the satellite view, but it’s unlabeled. (Thanks to Polly and Bob for identifying this! See comments.)

If you pass this structure yourselves, let us know what it is. It’s easy to locate - it’s at this well marked junction. Actually, the heritage distance marker is just as interesting.

Video sound track: Sonho (Dream), by Nando Lauria

It’s Easter! Rachael’s been anxious about being unable to find a meal (an anxiety stemming back to a stressful hunt for a meal in Caltanissetta four years ago). So she’s done the research and found a promising Italian restaurant across the river in Beaucaire that even takes reservations. It’s been a comfort all day long, knowing that we won’t starve at the end of the day.

We enjoy a nice stroll across the river, a fine meal, and a walk back again. I can’t say I’m entirely enamored by either of these two towns, but it’s a pleasant evening and the conditions are still mild when we cross back again just before sundown. On our way back to the room we stop at an ATM to cash up, since we have a stay coming up that is cash only. I’m startled by the experience though, as I realize this is the first time we’ve stopped at an ATM since leaving Barcelona. A month, and we were still nowhere near running out of cash. Cash is quickly becoming obsolete, and cards are accepted and expected almost universally now.

The 15th century Tarascon Chateau, seen from the bridge across the Rhone. To its right is rhenSainte-Marthe Church. I remember this chateau from our ride from Nice to Lisbon in 1996, when we climbed up to the roof for its view across the river.

Another view of the Tarascon chateau, from the bank in Beaucaire. This photo gives a god sense of how large the Rhone is here. This is just one half of the river, which is evenly split here by a long sand bar. The river in the photograph above is its eastern channel.

Facing the Tarascon Chateau on the opposite bank of the river is the Beaucaire a chateau. These two giants have been glowering at each other for over six hundred years. It reminds me of Beynac and Castelnaud facing off across the Dordogne.

Looking back at Beaucaire on our walk back across the Rhone after dinner.

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Ride stats today: 47 miles, 700’; for the tour: 830 miles, 40,300’

Rocky round up miles today: 3; for the tour: 14

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 830 miles (1,336 km)

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Suzanne GibsonAll sounds well. Sounds like you are two very happy campers now
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonWell, almost. Very happy non-campers, to be precise.
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2 years ago