In Annecy, day 1: along the lake

May 4, 2022

OK, so maybe Grenoble isn’t the ideal base in France for a cycle tourist. It’s pretty great of course but that opinion was formed before we came to Annecy, which at this season at least looks like cycling Nirvana. Ever since we arrived Rachael’s been filling up her idle hours by browsing for the ideal hotel. “Ooh, look at this one!”, she periodically interrupts me to announce with her latest discovery, before firing off an inquiry to see if they have bike storage.

We knew Annecy was great of course, because we stayed here for two nights on our French Alps tour in 1995. We were awed by the beauty of the city and surroundings and drawn in by its well developed bike infrastructure - especially the long, family-friendly bike path along the entire west side of the lake. We’ve talked about coming back some year ever since we left; and in fact I’ve been apprehensive about it, fearing that it would feel like a letdown from the idyllic place we’ve built up in our memories over the intervening years.

It’s not a letdown.

A view down the Thiou, the small river that empties Lake Annecy. Three and a half kilometers later it flows into the Fire, making it probably the shortest river in Europe.

Another view along the Thiou, with 12th century Annecy Castle behind.

With an unbroken streak of ten riding days (with a perfect 42 mpd a average!) behind us, we’re both ready for a day off. Not today though, which still looks too fine to sit out. Our rest day will surely come tomorrow, which both Weather.com and YR agree will bring solid rain all day long.

So we’re riding, but we’re at least going to take the most relaxing option - that family-friendly cruise along the lake that enchanted us seven years ago. I map it out as an out and back, continuing beyond the south end of the lake to cross a low decide before dropping to Ugine. We could continue dropping beyond it on this bike path all the way to Albertville on the Isere cyclepath, but that’s a bit long for today’s ride.

And of course since this is an out and back Rachael is gone as soon as we’re on the waterfront and up the lake, not to be seen again for a couple of hours when she’s already on her way back. And of course since this is Rachael she quickly forgets that this is supposed to be a restful ride. She falls in love with the experience of biking along this beautiful trail in the midst of a throng of other cyclists of all ages, keeps a torrid pace that she’ll think back on with some misgivings when she wakes up sore the next morning, and brings back this ecstatic video of her experience:

Video sound track: Bicycle Race, by Queen

Older and wiser, I didn’t do that. I took my time, maintaining a sensible but not manic pace and stopping frequently along the way so that you’d have some stills to look at (you’re welcome). I get just far enough when I see her coming back at me - enough to bag my 42 miles for the day, and just far enough to round the bend and have Mount Blanc impressively filling the canyon ahead of me.

The west side of the lake is hemmed in by this lush green ridge. Behind it soars Semnoz, at 5,500’ the high point in the Bauges - but we can’t see it from this side of the lake because we’re too close to this frontal ridge.

Along Lake Annecy. Note the sky ahead. Weather.com says we’ll see rain by two, and YR says four. We trust YR but hope for the best. It’s a reason to not dawdle too slowly.

We’re beyond the lake now, gradually climbing the low watershed that separates the lake from the Isere and its tributaries.

No longer beside the lake, but we’re still on this brilliant bike path that continues all the way to Albertville.

At the high point of the divide. Around the bend we start dropping to the Isere.

I finally meet up with Rachael here, just yards from rounding the bend that gives me the first view of Mont Blanc.

The sky is starting to look gloomy when we meet up. It’s been overcast for the last few miles, the air is freshening and the temperature is dropping. We wonder if Weather.com might be right and rains are coming earlier than hoped, so we make good time as we bike back north toward Annecy. It’s still early enough in the day so that we don’t need to stop for lunch yet, so we’ll wait until we get back close to home. With luck we’ll get back to the sun and find a nice picnic spot by the lake; or maybe we’ll just bike through to the room if conditions deteriorate.

After about five miles we move out from under the clouds. Conditions warm up and we start feeling optimistic.

We turned back soon enough and seem to be coming back down from the divide at just the right time. For a mile or two there is the slightest of sprinkling, but nothing worse than that. Once conditions improve we start watching for a spot beside the lake for lunch and find a brilliant one just five miles from the room. We sit on a wall beside the lake eating our lunch and watching the waterfowl drift by just yards from shore - a few mallards, a pair of mergansers, coot, a swan - and then a female mallard points its beak our direction and starts closing in on us, her mate close behind. She stares up at me imploringly for a few minutes to no good effect, and then decides to take matters in her own beak and waddles up next to us to see if any crumbs happen to be lying around. Irresistable.

I placed a bread crumb on Rachael’s shin just to see what would happen.

Finally we look up at the sky at the Annecy end of the lake and decide we’ve tarried long enough I’d not too long already, and dash the five miles back to the room.

Rachael heads out to the store again soon after we arrive, but otherwise we stay around the hotel all afternoon, finally heading out for dinner about a half hour before our reservation. It leaves us just enough time for a short walk down to the waterfront before the rains start. We walk quickly back into town to the restaurant, arriving only slightly wet and just before it really breaks out.

The view from our window, late afternoon.

The Palais de l’Ile, the former palace and prison that sits on the tiny island in the Thiou, right in the heart of town.

Lake Annecy. We’re here at what must be one of the most pleasant times, with all the motorized pleasure boats under wraps waiting for high season.

We choose an outside table under the canopy and for the next hour and a half enjoy dining in the romantic atmosphere of the rain pouring down above and streaming off its edge into puddles a safe distance from our table. By the time we’re ready to leave though there’s enough of a breeze and chill building up that we’re ready for shelter again. It’s still pouring and our room’s a half hour away, so we look at the weather app to see if it’s worth waiting around for respite but see that there’s no point and make our exit.

Surprisingly though, the rain starts easing off just as we leave the restaurant. We make do as best we can for a few blocks under the occasional awning until we come to the arcaded streets at the heart of the old city that provide real shelter. By the time we’re back in the open again for the last 500 yards it’s really lightened up. We arrive at the hotel reasonably dry, but the thin cardboard pizza box we’ve brought the leftovers from Rachael’s meal in thoroughly soaked and flaccid. The pizza itself seems fine though and gets popped in the mini-fridge for tomorrow’s lunch.

In Annecy - beautiful in any conditions, in our experience at least.

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Ride stats today: 42 miles, 900’; for the tour: 1,448 miles, 72,000’

Rocky round up miles today: 6; for the tour: 20

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 1,448 miles (2,330 km)

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Angela NaefI love Annecy! So beautiful! Thanks again for sharing the journey.
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1 year ago

Carolyn van HoeveHi Scott and Rachael! Very much enjoying following you on your tour!
I feel I may be recovered enough from my shoulder injury by September and starting to think maybe we could plan for a tour. You completely sold me on your Germany stint last year but now I'm loving the look of this part of France. You make it very difficult with your philosophy of love the one you're with and win me over every time. So here's a question ... where would you choose to go for a month in September, given my newly acquired dislike for gravel? Is that too difficult a question? All the paved paths you're on now are very appealing. Would it be too cold in September?
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1 year ago

Kathleen ClassenOh I am so envious. We absolutely love Annecy. Isn’t that track around the lake amazing? We have spent some time this evening starting to get serious about a fall tour.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveI’m glad to hear you’re healing well. It was such a shame about your injury, and just when people were beginning to feel like they could travel safely.

Have you ever been to this part of France? September might be the best month of the year to be here, and you could have a long, reasonably easy and spectacular tour following the Via Rhona top to bottom, with a side trip up to Grenoble and Annecy. One great thing about cycling in France now is that your bike is allowed on any regional train free of charge (and trains go pretty much everywhere in France it seems), so there’s a lot of flexibility. You might start in Lyon and work your way south with the season, maybe touring the Camargue at the end and flying home from Montpellier.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen ClassenYes, Annecy is the place alright. We’re here for five nights and are starting to miss it already. Maybe we should just cancel our plans for the rest of France and stay here for six weeks until Schengen kicks us out.
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1 year ago

Keith KleinTo Carolyn van HoeveHi Carolyn,
Frenchman here. I’ll take the liberty of answering for Scott an Rachel, as they have probably not experiences autumn in the alps. Yes, you can ride, but expect freezing nights. A few snowflakes may fall in the higher elevations, but if you dress appropriately, it is usually fine. Morning fog on the shores of lake Annecy are a moving experience.
By the end of September the nights begin to get quite cold, but with climate change there may be fine days ahead. But by November, the snows will start, at least most years, and ski season lasts until late march or early April.
There is no way to describe the beauty of Annecy and its lake. I might have settled there except I’m not a skier, and Susan hates snow. But we do love Annecy.
Cheers,
Keith
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1 year ago

Keith KleinHi,
Maybe I spoke too soon. Have you been to Annecy in the fall? Between there ans Aix-le-Bains, I would have a hard time choosing routes to ride. Annecy is slightly prettier, though.
Cheers,
Keith
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith KleinNo, but the thought is there. We’ve been talking up the idea of getting a long stay visa next year and coming back this way in the early autumn. I’m sure it’s gorgeous, but I know you need some luck with the weather beyond September if you’re going to leave the valley. The closest we came was in 1993, biking back to Paris from Provence. We climbed up the Ardeche Gorge and north up the east side of the Central Massif in early October and it was already getting pretty chilly.
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1 year ago

Carolyn van HoeveTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott! And this would be your vote vs the route you took through Germany & Austria last year? We have seen a bit of France (a lot of Provence) but not this area. It looks really beautiful. France always appeals for so many reasons.
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1 year ago

Carolyn van HoeveTo Keith KleinHey Keith - thanks so much for your input! It's great to read your enthusiasm for the area as well. Suggestions are very welcome!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveFolks are looking for such different things when the travel, Carolyn. I don’t think I’d recommend one region over another, other than to note that Germany is further north and weather in September might be chancier. I’m hesitant to make recommendations about where people should go, other than to describe how our experience has been.
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1 year ago