No biking today, because we have errands to attend to. My bike’s gears need some serious adjustment (I imagine the new cables have stretched out over the first two weeks of the tour), so I bike over to a shop that agreed yesterday to fit me in if I get the bike in promptly at 8 this morning. Rachael’s out on her own for a brisk walk, and after that she’s taking our laundry to the nearby laundromat. I’ve got the morning to myself, at the best time to see an overtouristed town like Zadar - while the light is still good, and before the crowds crowd the streets.
After making the rounds I stop in at a caffe bar for a couple of shots and cull through the morning’s catch to the background music of the upbeat, uninhibited barista singing enthusiastically along with the audio track.
After dropping off my bike at the shop, I walked back into the old city through the Land Gate. Built in the 1500’s, this was originally the main gate to the city. At that time the walled city was separated from the mainland by a moat that has since been filled in.
Along the landward end of the south shore, the quietest part of the island. Today there appears to be some sort of fishing derby for young people taking place. About a hundred young fisherfolk are evenly spaced along the wall, in marked zones.
The cathedral belltower is a hybrid. The bottom half dates from the fifteen hundreds, while the upper tiers were added in the late eighteen hundreds following a design by a British architect who patterned it after the campanile on the island of Rab (which we’ll see in a few days). At one time it’s chimes were programmed to play God Save the Queen.
The Church of Saint Donatus, begun in the late ninth century, is the largest pre-Romanesque church in Croatia. During the Venetian occupation it was used as a warehouse.
You can catch a ride rowboat ride across the narrow mouth of the harbor, but it feels a bit indulgent. You could also just walk a few hundred yards to the pedestrian bridge instead.
Tomas (if I heard him correctly), from Helsinki. On the road for the last eighteen months, and currently heading south through the islands. He recommends Finland, preferably in June or August - but not July, when the insects are at their worst.
The footbridge across the harbor leads to the City Gate, and the heart of the old city. By midday, the central thoroughfares are too packed to bicycle through.
I collected my bike, which functions now much better than when I dropped it off. The mechanic adjusted the brakes, but also removed a link from the chain. His diagnosis was that the primary issue was that the chain was a bit too long, so we’ll see.
Rachael and I sat out the hottest hours of the day again before setting out for a bit more exploration before dinner. We made it inside the Cathedral, climbed its campanile to enjoy a view down on the city, and then made our way back to the waterfront and the same fine restaurant we dined at two nights earlier. It was another perfect evening for dining outdoors - not too hot, a refreshing breeze, the sun setting across the bay. We were lucky tonight, and we’re seated next to an appealing and sociable couple from San Diego making their way down the coast from Venice to Dubrovnik on their fall vacation. We haven’t had many extended conversations with strangers here in Croatia, and we enjoyed their company.
We’ve enjoyed our hiatus here. I imagine it would have been quieter here twenty seven years ago when we originally planned to be here (we’ll, not that quiet, actually - there was a war on), but it was still a fine place to hole up for a few days. Tomorrow, back on the bikes, and back on the islands.
Like I said earlier, the north wall of the cathedral is lined with lace sellers this afternoon.
The staircase on the lowest tier is incredibly narrow - perhaps 20 inches. It’s like a single track road - if someone is coming the other way, someone needs to backtrack.
We didn’t find that much of interest inside Saint Donatus Church, other than the ticket taker’s playful assistant. Four months old, and the last of the litter. We’d take her, but as I said earlier we already have one souvenir loading us down.
Sea bass with shrimp and polenta. For a change we ordered the same dish, which works well for photos - there’s no pressure from Rachael to hurry it up so she can dig in.
I think Singing Cycling Cowboy and Uninhibited Singing Barista should get together for a performance!
5 years ago
A cowboy/karaoke duet is really an inspired idea. Not too late to consider Zadar to hole up roe awhile, Grumbies!
5 years ago