Eureka to Austin

September 12, 2023

7.2

By morning, the rain had stopped but there was a chill in the air. Michel sent a text, wishing us well, as he departed earlier than we did. Chuck and I found a coffee shop in town that was the only place open to break the fast.

We pulled out around 8:00 am, headed for Austin. There would be fewer miles to cover and no rain but the pattern would be similar to that of yesterday, in the sense that “the best” would be saved for last.

Eureka is a Nevada mining town that might currently be between booms.

Leaving town, we were still on a downward path and enjoying the coasting as the road wound through the landscape. Eventually, it leveled out and we had a long cruise on relatively flat terrain.

US-50 leveled off and then made for some nice pedaling west.

Since there has been more rain this year than is usual for the area, it is greener, there are more flowers, and there is even some standing water. Glad we were able to contribute last evening to the general welfare of the area ;-)

Standing water in the foreground and plenty to eat for the cattle.

Around mid-morning, we caught up with Michel at a rest stop. For the reminder of the day, we would see him again at different points. He seems to be a very nice and sincere fellow. We have enjoyed riding and talking with him.

As the afternoon came on, the sun was bright and the temperature warm. The first pass for the day was Hickison. At its base was an interpretive area for petroglyphs from the ancient inhabitants of the area. We climbed to the summit and then had a long downhill ride.

Some may find Nevada to be lonely, monotonous, and/or boring. I am enjoying the heck out of being in this place. Each valley unfolds magnificently as you descend from a summit. There are many mountains out there, of which few people ever speak.

Going in today, we knew the big climb awaited us at the end. It would come as a two-for-one special. If heading west, Austin Summit has a long first climb to a false summit. Once there, a nice rest area in a grove of pines awaits. We met up with Michel again there.

Michel before descending from the false Austin Summit.

After a short rest, there was a fast downhill that curved into another climb made up of switchbacks. Michel and I reached the top and took photos. On the descent, we leapfrogged and took photos of each other descending this tremendously scenic pass.

View during the descent from Austin Summit. The gob piles (of mining tailings) can be seen off to the left and above the homes of residents.

Austin is built into the side of the mountain. It was and still is a gold mining town. Evidence of past mining is still visible in the form of tailings piles present in areas where people reside.

The town reminds me of a Pittsburgh river-mill town, built into the cliffs with steep streets and walkways leading to the workers’ homes. I said this to the proprietor of the Union Street Lodge, where we stayed. She was great, by the way. So was the lodge.

I had the Pony Express room at the lodge. I now want this in my room at home. Wife won’t go for it though. She likes the mansplaining joke.

However, some westerners think that because their mountains are of higher elevation, our eastern hills are trivial in comparison. I won’t get into any long winded mansplaining here but would simply recommend if anyone is coming East to ride our hills, better have eaten all of your Wheaties. (Remind me to tell you the mansplainer joke sometime).

We walked into town looking for something to eat. Nothing was open. We were standing outside The International, the oldest bar in Nevada, when Camille came by. She manages the place and took notice of us. She stopped, opened up, fired up the grille, and fed us, even though she was off that night. She regaled us with stories about the place, past and present. If in Austin, go to The International.

Lynn and Chuck, at the original bar from the mid-1800s, inside The International.

Today's ride: 70 miles (113 km)
Total: 669 miles (1,077 km)

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George HallI liked these small Nevada towns. I ate at the International (it was either eat there or the burger bar was the only other option), and stayed at the Lincoln motel (that was the only choice in 2017). You are riding the route I rode in reverse, and I'm enjoying re-living the experience as I follow along. Best of luck,
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8 months ago

Dino AngeliciI too enjoyed the Nevada towns. They are far apart and have their own personalities but they also seem to know what is going on with their “adjacent” neighboring communities. The International was a cool place. I am glad we got to experience it. Nothing else was open, except for the gas station/convenience store, which actually had some decent looking sandwiches.

I believe the way you went is harder. While we had some tough climbs, I was glad we weren’t riding up some of the downhills we enjoyed.

Thanks George for your perspectives and for following along.
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8 months ago