Day 57: Wisdom to Sheridan, MT; New High For Me, 2 Mountain Passes and a Century

August 27, 2015

Notes:

1.) If you select the “Comment” link near the bottom of the page you can leave a message for me. I enjoy getting them.

2.) Climbing Today: 3,014 ft -- Total So Far; 136,117 ft

3.) Average Speed While Biking Today: 10.9 mph

4.) Mechanical Issues Today: none

5.) Miles Remaining to Canon City: about 833

6.) Miles Traveled to Date on This Half of the Journey: 1167

7.) Money Found Today: 0

8.) Total Money Found: $0.41 (Will I find enough to buy a cup of coffee?)

9.) Former BAR (Bicycle Altitude Record): 7,241 feet, Chief Joseph Pass

New BAR set today; 7,400 feet, Big Hole Pass

I was up early and rolling at 5:00 am this morning. Wow, I wish you could have heard the coyotes yelling; it sounded like they were really close, and their yelping made for incredible music in the early morn! I’ve heard coyotes numerous times, but not like this; words just can’t possibly do it justice. I stopped a few miles outside of Wisdom for a break and was still long enough for my bicycle lights to go out; shortly afterwards the coyotes began singing their melodious tune. They were very close, and they were talking to me; they really were! I didn't just hear them yelping, I could feel the soulful emotion of their cries - they were talking to me, and only me. It was very dark and still in the pre-dawn morning, and the whole world was just me and the coyotes; they were harmonizing from both sides of the road and I've never heard such a beautiful sound, and I may very well never ever experience such a magic moment again. I wish all of you could experience this moment for yourself sometime, and I can think of no better thing in the world to wish for you - something like this was meant to be shared, but you really have to put yourself out there if you want to experience it. It'll change your life...

The early morning air was quite chilly now, and my fingers were quite cold. I wore light cotton gloves over my cycling gloves, but it wasn't enough to keep my fingers warm. I really didn’t mind though, cause I knew the sun would start cooking me later. I had been traveling through the Big Hole valley. Here’s a bit of info about it, taken in near complete darkness;

Big Hole Valley Info - Photo Taken in Darkness Leaving Wisdom

I had never seen a bird nest built like this;

A Very Tall Man-Made Bird Nest; For Eagles?

The nest sits atop a telephone-pole-like pole with a flat platform on top for the bird to build a nest. I later discovered what type of birds use these nests, but I’ll save that info for the proper chronological moment. As usual, I could bore you to tears with deer photos, but this time let’s do something a bit different. I startled a couple of deer who tried to escape me by jumping a fence. The momma deer jumped the fence with ease.

The fawn ran towards the fence several times and stopped short each time before finally making a go at it. The fawn couldn’t jump that high, so it jumped and then finally climbed over the fence.

Then The Baby Deer Half-Jumps and Half-Climbs The Fence

Sorry that the above pic isn't focused well; the dim early morning makes for challenging photography. Oh what the heck; here are a couple more deer pics;

Here’s the view approaching Jackson, home of the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge;

View Approaching Jackson, Home to Jackson Hot Springs Lodge

I had originally planned to stay in Jackson last night, but the owners of the Lodge (where tent camping is also permitted) keep unusual hours and are apparently only operating on the weekends now as they wouldn’t return my calls a couple of days back. Entering town, the Post Office amused me.

I Thought the Jackson Post Office Was "Interesting" - It Looked Like A Hobbit House

There must be a size/height requirement to be able to work in this Post Office - only Hobbits can apply. Here’s a view of my path as I rolled on towards Big Hole Pass;

It was still a bit smoky out. I had obtained the proper clearances from Bike Control to attempt a new BAR today, and after a wee bit of labor Harvey and I topped out at the summit of Big Hole Pass.

I Made It. This is a New Bicycle Altitude Record (BAR) For Me

It’s a new BAR for us both, but we’d have been a lot happier if it wasn’t for this view of the next valley;

It Was A Bit Smoky In One End Of The Next Valley - I Was So Hoping For Clean Air!

Each time I crested a pass I was hoping for cleaner air in the next valley, but today was not to be that day. Here’s a view of what would be scenic mountains if you could see them well;

They Say There Are Scenic Mountains Out There - It's Hard to Tell Through the Smoke

My route today rolls me past Beaverhead Rock, a prominent landmark for travelers of a bygone era. Here’s a bit of background info for those who may be curious;

And here’s the rock itself;

Shortly before approaching the town of Twin Bridges, I noted a rather interesting mailbox.

A little rain shower had formed behind me.

A Little Rain Shower Chased Me Down the Road - This Area Desperately Needed Rain

The shower was chasing me and teasing me with a few raindrops now and then. Not enough to get me very wet, but enough to cause me to push on hurriedly. I tired from the effort and stopped for a break. The smoke had been causing me to occasionally pass out and wake up a few hours later after having some of the strangest dreams. Sometimes I dreamt I was robbing banks and such; I really needed to get out of the smoke, it was messing with my head.

Sitting down for a moment’s rest, I passed out today and again had some very strange dreams. When I woke up, Harvey said “You did it again.” “I did what?” I replied. “You were sleep-riding again, and this time you sprinted to a store in Twin Bridges, went inside for 5 minutes, then sprinted back here. I knew you were sleep-riding because you wouldn’t answer me when I talked to you.”

“We’ve had this discussion before, Harvey,” I said. “There is no such thing as sleep-riding. Now quit trying to convince me otherwise, because it’s getting old. You’re not funny.” Harvey just sighed and said “Whatever. You need some fresh air Dude.” I knew that I needed fresh air, I was about to go freaking nuts if I didn’t find clean air somewhere. So we saddled up and rolled on down the road.

I stopped for a break at a long private driveway, and the owner rolled up in a motorized utility wagon to check her mail. I thought this was a rather well-trained pooch, as it sat and waited as commanded.

A Well-Trained Dog Waited in the Buggy While It's Owner Got the Mail

The dog was only 10 months old. It’s hard to train a young one to behave so well as they are rather rambunctious at that age. Pushing on towards Sheridan, the air was still hazy but it was about the best I had seen for some time.

The Air was As Good As I Have Had in 2 Weeks Now, But It Was Still A Bit Hazy/Smoky

Apparently you can have your Georgias either wet or dry as you may prefer out here.

Seems As Though You Have A Choice In Your Georgias

We reached Sheridan and checked into the Moriah Motel. I was tired; this day I had ridden 105 miles, my second (and hopefully last) century ride of this half of my journey. I had originally planned to stop shorter and stay at Twin Bridges, but there was very little accommodation available and it was both meager and expensive. The Beaverhead River and Ruby River coalesce at Twin Bridges, and it’s a very popular fly fishing town; hence the overpriced lodging. So we went a bit long to get out of Twin Bridges, and doing so put me back on schedule after suffering smoke/fire delays earlier.

The news tonight was dominated by the Bandana Bicycle Bandit. It seems that he struck Twin Bridges this time, but instead of a bank he hit a hardware store. They interviewed the store manager who said “He demanded all of our cylinders of compressed air. That’s all he wanted, just compressed air. I only had 2 cylinders, and he opened one of them and just snorted all the air as it came out. It can’t be good for you to breathe nothing but clean air, but that’s what he did.”

“Why didn’t you call the police right away?” asked the reporter. The manager answered “I would have, but he threatened me and Jeanette, my cashier, with that bottle of bear urine and forced us into a closet. Then he opened the valve on the second cylinder of air and tossed it into the closet with us before he shut the door. We both got so giddy from breathing clean air that I didn’t even know my own name for about an hour. By the time I recovered and called the cops he was long gone.”

The reporter then interviewed Jeanette, the hardware store cashier, who said “The guy had these steely eyes that just looked right through you. I couldn’t see his face because he wore that bandana, but I think he’s probably a handsome fellow. I haven’t breathed clean air in so long that I forgot what it was like. It was exhilarating,” she said, “it made me feel real good. Triple B, if you’re watching, you can come back any time. I get off work at 5:00…” The reporter cut her off and they went into an analysis of the social evil that was being done by Triple B. It seems that a number of copycat bandits were now using the same tactics and forcing their way into bank vaults for the clean air. Everyone wanted clean air.

I wanted clean air too, but there was none to be found in Sheridan, MT. Tomorrow the search continues. If I don’t find it soon, it will be too late, as least for my sanity. Good night folks, if you’re breathing clean air be grateful for it cause a lot of folks aren’t…

Today's ride: 105 miles (169 km)
Total: 3,464 miles (5,575 km)

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