July 28, 2016
DAY 60: Hindman to Lookout: "High spirits amidst downtrodden surroundings"
DAILY STATS
Mileage: 50.68
Average Speed: 12.5 mph
Maximum Speed: 33.8 mph
This morning, I wearily peered out the window of my cozy abode, expecting to see torrential rainfall and lightning. To my relief, it was blissfully overcast, with just a hint of rain dripping through the leaves. I decided that today would not be spent inside, but rather in the beautifully cool mountain roads of eastern Kentucky.
After a quick, protein-packed breakfast, I was off, eager to get to the church in Lookout before noon, when the weather was slated to turn very sour.
Today's ride was a change of pace from previous days, largely because the weather was pleasant. I wound through narrow hollows ("hollers" as they say around here) amidst tropical-looking mountains. I could have been in central America for all I knew. And, other than a brief encounter with a fantastically overweight (yet commendably persistent) chihuahua, the dogs today were also not much of an issue. It was good riding.
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I passed by several abandoned coal mining operations, which were surrounded by abject poverty. There were also several waste ponds, full of what can only be described as carcinogenically-green water. It's frankly stunning to see how impacted this region has been by the boom and bust of the coal mining industry.
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I made it to the church in Lookout after a painfully-steep climb and descent.
Weary but content with my ride, I was warmly greeted by a mission group, given my own room, and told that all food items in the kitchen and pantry were free for the taking.
I spent a fair bit of time zoned out on my bed, trying (and failing) to take a nap. I think my body is so used to pushing itself between the hours of 7am~6pm that napping is pretty much impossible. So, after a while, I went out and passed the time with the missionaries. These folks were from South Carolina, and we're up here to serve the local community and to host vacation bible school. I got to talking with a community member about the area. Her demeanor was cheery and well-meaning, but her outlook for the region was bleak. Drug addiction, food stamps fraud, malnutrition, and crippling poverty have completely decimated the surrounding communities, and with no jobs or industries, folks are resigned to a life living on welfare. I couldn't help but feel sorry for folks, but looking around the room, I could only see smiles and hear laughter. This church and community center really provide a much-needed break from the outside world.
As a mere passing cyclists, I felt selfish and somewhat helpless. Here I was, coming here for a single night and riding off the following day. Yet the folks at the church opened their arms and fed me dinner and dessert, as we shared stories and laughed. Their cheer is a testament to the human spirit, even amidst hardship.
Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 3,923 miles (6,313 km)
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