February 10, 2010
Feb. 10, Baan Phupona - Lampang: Over the pass and it's downhill to the Elephant Camp and Lampang
We get a good night's sleep and the morning is cool. However, we don't quite get the early start we planned. When we wake up, Mr. Phupona is already busy raking up the dry leaves that fell overnight, and tending to the extensive grounds and mango orchards surrounding the restaurant and guesthouse. He takes time to show us his workshop. He is a silversmith and crafted the traditional Lanna silver necklaces, earrings, and bracelets on display in his shop. His wife's sewing machine isn't far off, and we now realize that she has sewn all the textile goods in their souvenir shop, which we now have a closer look at. Their son, whom we met yesterday when he was called to help translate, works as a veterinary at the nearby Thai Elephant Conservation Center.
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It's only a few kilometers to the top. It's a sweaty climb but we get all kinds of encouragement from the passing traffic, mainly trucks. When they pass, they blow their horns, wave and give us the thumbs-up sign. Either they're happy that their trucks made it to the top or they're congratulating us - or both.
After coasting several kilometers, we are at the entrance to the Thai Elephant Conservation Center. We are in time for the elephant show where we can see elephants' traditional work in the logging of teak wood. They also show some cute tricks they've taught the elephants. I'm not really keen on seeing an elephant twist a hula hoop on his trunk or use his trunk to brandish a paint brush, but I was impressed, I must admit, at the intelligence and fine motor skills of these huge animals. And I suppose the show with this popular touch attracts more visitors and much needed funds for the elephant hospitals. There are two hospitals within the grounds. One is run by the government and associated with the center and the other is independently run by a private citizen as a charity. Sick, injured or orphaned elephants are treated there. They even have a mobile rescue unit that will go anywhere in Thailand to rescue an elephant and bring it back to the hospital for treatment.
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It's well past noon when we leave the elephant center. Gradually we come to the end of the downhill coasting and have to pedal again. The tail end of the ride is flat and roasting hot. In Lampang we choose the Pin Hotel recommended in Lonely Planet, where we get a big room for the price but not much atmosphere. Since we're on the ground floor, we just roll our bikes into our room for the night. No one seems to object.
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